Here it is, the dreaded oil pan removal. One of those things that isn’t too much fun, but since I had re-threaded the stud I wanted to be sure no bits and pieces made it in there.
I warmed up the engine, drained the oil and removed the oil filter. There are 14 bolts in the oil pan (all are the same length) that need to be removed.
I started by loosening all bolts about 1/4 turn first, then added another 1/2 turn before pulling them out completely. Check the last pic down below for the order of removal of the bolts. I started from #14 going down.
The pan came off easily, sometimes it can be a bit sticky and you can use a rubber mallet to give it some easy hits to get it off.
Luckily the inside was bright and shiny, no bits and pieces in there whatsoever!
The remaining oil looks good as well, but that’s not surprising since I changed it only 500 miles ago.
The round part is the strainer. I carefully unclipped the wire that holds the strainer, which let me remove it.
There are two bolts underneath that hold the strainer housing. I heard they can come loose so I decided to remove them and use blue loctite when I put them back in.
Everything is disassembled. Strainer is clean, the gasket is a monster, sticking on the pan like nothing I have ever seen before.
This deserves another picture or two, since it was so much work to get the gasket off. I used Permatex gasket remover, but honestly it didn’t help much even though I applied it multiple times and gave it some time to soak in.
At the end, lots of elbow grease, the use of a scraper and a chisel did the trick.
Obviously you need to take very good care to not nick or scratch the sealing surface, which didn’t make this whole job easier….
Done with the oil pan, finally! At the end I gave it a wipe down with carb cleaner to get any final oil residue off the sealing surface.
There was one thing that worried me a little bit. When I took the oil filter out, the rubber seal on the outside was damaged. The filter was still sealed in the housing pretty well.
I did some research and the folks on the MOA forum thought it could have been that a seal from a previous filter got stock on the inside of the housing.
There was nothing though and the only explanation I have is that I may have forgotten to lube the seal with engine oil before putting the filter back in and then when screwing the cap back on the friction between cap and filter was more than the seal could take….but what do I know??
I also wanted to see if there was any debris in the oil filter, since I had just completed the stud job. I cut the filter open but nothing in there, which is good!
Putting everything back together was pretty straight forward:
- Install the strainer housing, use blue loctite and torque the two bolts to spec
- Install strainer and clip
- Clean the sealing surface of the engine block
- Install the oilfilter
- Put the gasket on the pan, no additional sealant necessary
- Install the oil pan, for now tighten the 14 bolts by hand only
- Install oil drain plug (with new ring)
Torque the bolts in a cross pattern as indicated in the picture. The picture is from the Clymer manual, so I give them some credit here (and hopefully don’t get sued….).
Tighten the bolts in steps, hand tight, then 30 inch-lbs (not ft-lbs!!!) then 50 inch lbs, until a final 65 to 74 inch-lbs (final torque recommended by “Snowbum”).
Now torque the drain plug and ADD OIL, then start her up!